Gary's Corner

What is a PTAC?

A PTAC (Package Terminal Air Conditioner) is a through the wall Hotel type Heating and Cooling unit.

They are available in Cooling only, Cooling with electric heat and Heat Pump with electric heat.  The units are all electric and some units can be operated on 115 volts while most are 240 volt. All new installations require the use of a Wall Sleeve, Aluminum Grille and a Drain Kit.

Is a PTAC right for you?

PTAC units can be used for small additions, sunrooms, attic and or garage conversions. They have to be installed through an outside wall and power needs to be near the unit in the form of an outlet. There is no ductwork required to use a PTAC unit although there are duct pieces that can be special ordered through the manufacturer. They are very DIY friendly as there are no refrigerant connections to be done.

Sizing a PTAC?

PTAC units will generally cover a maximum of 500 square feet. The type of area being heated and cooled can make sizing a little more difficult. For example a sunroom would typically require a larger unit than an addition because of the construction materials and insulation. The only way to truly size any heating and cooling system is to do a heat load calculation. We can provide a sizing chart to use for reference only.

What’s the difference between a Heat Pump w/ electric heat and A/C w/ electric heat?

A heat pump is basically an air conditioner that runs in a reverse cycle. So instead of absorbing heat from inside the home and releasing it to the outside like a standard A/C unit would do, the heat pump absorbs heat from outside and releases it to the inside of the home. This is done by way of a four way reversing valve and piping in the unit. The heat pump unit has to go through a defrost cycle because the “condenser” coil will frost up under normal operation. The electric heat is mainly a back up to the heat pump. When temperatures are too low for the heat pump to keep up the electric heat will take over and satisfy the heating demand.

What is a mini split?

A mini split system is really just what the name implies, a miniature split system. There is an outside condenser and an inside unit that typically hangs on the wall. There is no ductwork needed for these types of system installations. The thermostat is in the form of a remote control that can be put anywhere in the room. The mini split systems are good for additions and open areas where ductwork would not be cost effective to install. These systems do require a EPA certified HVAC technician to make refrigerant connections, pull vacuum and open base valve to release refrigerant into the system.

Is a mini split right for you?

A mini split system is ideal for additions, attic & garage conversions or areas where running ductwork would be difficult or impossible to run. They come as A/C only or Heat Pump models. Some of the installation can be done by a home owner but you will need an EPA certified HVAC technician to make all refrigerant connections, pressure test with nitrogen, pull deep vacuum and open base valves to release refrigerant into the system.

As we make our way through a chilly house in the morning and stumble towards the kitchen to get our first cup of coffee for the day, we realize along the way that this is going to be the day:  the day we must awaken our furnace by sliding the switch on the thermostat over to HEAT mode and enjoy the familiar aroma of dust being burned-off the heat exchanger.

While I hope that everyone’s furnace has enjoyed the time off and is ready for the season ahead, I want to share a few things I typically take care of this time of year and recommend to everyone with a forced hot air gas furnace.  The first thing, and it’s been said several times before, is to change the air filter.  This is too often forgotten about, but is one of the easiest things to prevent problems and ensure proper and efficient operation.  Next, since I have a humidifier, I make sure I have a new media pad in place so that the water will be properly suspended and easily available to be evaporated into the air stream.  After all, having the proper humidity can eliminate static electricity, makes you feel warmer, and is healthier for people with asthma and upper respiratory issue.  Now it’s time to shut the power OFF to the furnace, take a lightly dampened cloth, and carefully wipe any surface dust that I have easy access to in blower and burner areas, making sure to stay away from the hot surface igniter.  As preventative maintenance, I clean the flame sensor with #0000 steel wool; even though it may look clean, if it doesn’t detect the right amount of micro amps, the furnace won’t operate.  The vent system is next on the list.  Inspect that all pipes are in good condition and connected securely.  If you have a high efficiency furnace, you will want to go outside to make sure there are no obstructions to the flue and combustion air in-take terminations, and verify the condensate line that runs to either the floor drain or condensate drain is clear.  If everything checks out, turn on the power, set the thermostat to HEAT and adjust the temperature a few degrees higher than the current room temperature, and observe the furnace cycling.  NOTE:  Most new furnaces have a control board that has a programmed sequence of operation.  Should a problem occur, the board typically has an LED that emits a flash code indicating an error code.  Error codes can be found in the manuals to the furnace, and on some units may be printed either on the control board or the back of one of the doors to the furnace.

If you use LP/Propane Gas, and if your unit is in a damp location, have a close look at your burners to make sure they are free of rust and that little spiders or webs are not obstructing the gas flow, especially along the carry-over area (this is where the flame catches and moves along to the next burner until all the burners are lit).

Some customers, especially those in more rural locations, like to have a few repair parts available in an emergency such as an igniter, flame sensor, or control board.  If you’d like to do so, go to our online store or call us to place your order.

I hope this bonding experience with your furnace proves to be helpful and ensures a trouble-free heating season with your Winchester furnace.  Should you have a problem and need assistance, we offer FREE troubleshooting as long as you own the furnace.  Give us a call and be sure to have your unit model and serial numbers, and if possible the error flash code, so we may expedite your call.  In many cases, Hamilton can troubleshoot and diagnose over the phone and save you money on a service call.

It looks like things are heating up, and people are flipping on their A/C.  For those considering adding an A/C or heat pump system, and for those making a replacement, many want to know more about our Quick Connect Pre-Charged A/C and heat pump systems.  This type of system is one which each component (outdoor condenser, indoor coil, and line set) is pre-charged with environmentally friendly R-410A refrigerant, hermetically sealed, and contains either a male or female  quick connect fitting.  While Hamilton offers both quick connect pre-charged and sweat systems, one of the most obvious benefits compared to standard sweat systems, is that installation is easier and time is significantly reduced since pulling a vacuum, brazing, and adding refrigerant to the system is eliminated.  Quick connect systems have been available to the mobile home sector for years, and Hamilton introduced them to the residential market about 23 years ago.

Our quick connect outdoor condensers are designed for use in both residential and mobile home applications, while the indoor coils and line sets are specific to the application.  Sizes are available from 2 – 4 Tons.  (1 Ton = 12,000 BTU)

Click Here for Residential Systems

Click Hear for Mobile Home Systems

How Does it Work?  Once the equipment is set in place and connections are ready to be made, the male and female fittings are threaded together and the seals meet between the couplings, the piercing blade (located on the male side) punctures and folds the seals back permitting the refrigerant to flow freely through the system.  Note: The final refrigerant connections on both quick connect and sweat fit systems are required to be done by a certified technician.

Hamilton Home Products, Inc. will be exhibiting at the 2012 National Hardware Show in Las Vegas in the Plumbing & Electrical section, booth # 2411. This is a great opportunity for retailers to have a look at a product line that can increase sales while satisfying the needs of their commercial accounts, pro contractor, and Do-it-Yourself/Buy-it-Yourself customers.  

While many home centers have a duct work and air filter section to support forced air heating and cooling systems, most lack the equipment that makes up the central system. For over 23 years, Hamilton has offered special order and stock programs with short lead times on high quality HVAC equipment and accessories for residential, commercial, and mobile home applications where customers may purchase the equipment separate from the installation.  In addition, our knowledgeable customer service representatives, based in central Ohio, are available to assist with sizing selection, technical questions, troubleshooting, take repair parts orders, and process warranty claims.

I hope to see you there. 

 

In my previous post, I mentioned that I would be doing some pre-season maintenance on my A/C to ensure it’s working at peak efficiency when hot weather arrives.  Well, I took my cover off, cleaned-up the cabinet, applied coil cleaner and rinsed.  The next couple of days it reached the mid-80s, so I decided to turn the A/C on as it was getting a little uncomfortable inside.  Things were going fine until day 2 when I heard a strange noise coming from the unit.  It sounded like the condenser was trying to come on, but it wouldn’t turnover.  Upon further inspection, I noticed that the compressor seemed to have power, but the fan wasn’t turning. 

I quickly realized it was time for action to avoid resting my head on a warm pillow.  I gathered my tools, turned the thermostat off, and shut the power off at the outdoor disconnect. After verifying that the fan motor was able to spin freely, I proceeded to remove the access panel to do a visual inspection.  There are not a lot of parts on an A/C condenser.  You have the main working part, the compressor, a fan motor, run capacitor, and the contactor.  Within seconds I noticed that the capacitor was defective as the top of the capacitor was clearly swollen. (See picture)  It turned out to be a quick fix, since, as luck would have it, I bought a couple sizes of capacitors to have on hand when a neighbor’s condenser went out last summer.  The total time to diagnose and make the repair was less than 20 minutes.   My A/C system is approximately 10 years old and this is the first repair I have had to make.  It's not a bad idea to have a capacitor on hand if your system is 5 years old or more.  They are inexpensive, easy to replace, and can ensure that your family stays comfortable during the heat and humidity of the summer. This is the collection of our capacitor and replacement parts.  Be sure to get all the specifications off of the label of your existing capacitor.

Tips About Run Capacitors:Regardless of the brand of the equipment, these are a generic replacement part as long as they are replaced with a capacitor that has the exact specifications.  (Note the specifications on the label) They have two electrical ratings. The first rating is the unit's capacitance which is given in microfarads (mfd). This is a measure of the amount of charge the unit can store with a specified voltage applied. The second rating is a voltage rating which tells what supply voltage the unit is rated for. This is usually 370VAC or 440VAC in HVAC systems. This is important to know because, if a significantly higher voltage is applied, the capacitor will fail prematurely.

I have to admit that even though most of us did not experience a typical winter, I'm happy to see mild temperatures return so I can spend more time outside.  Although it's not my favorite thing to do, I know part of my time outside will be getting the yard and landscaping back into shape.  In addition to dealing with the stray leaves, twigs, and debris that have somehow settled around the foundation of the house and landscaping, this is also when I remove the condenser cover on my A/C unit and do some routine maintenance to make sure my A/C will be ready when I need it.

Many people try to hide their outdoor condenser with landscaping, lattice, and vegetation.  To make sure your A/C or Heat Pump is working at peak efficiency, however, make sure there is approximately 18”-24” of clearance around the perimeter of the condenser so the unit can easily pull air through the condenser coil.  This also makes the unit a lot easier to maintain and service.

To clean the condenser coil, you want to start by shutting-off the power at the main breaker or at the outdoor disconnect.  Next, you can rinse the inside and outside of the condenser coil and fins with water and clean by using either a degreaser or coil cleaner spray (offered at some home centers).  If using a brush with soapy water, you want to make sure you are carefully brushing parallel to the fin direction to make sure you don’t bend the fins and rinse.  Many of the coil cleaner sprays are easy to use – just spray the cleaner on the outer coil surface and let it set for a few minutes to let the foam penetrate the surfaces and rinse.

After the condenser is completely dry, you can use an automotive wax on the cabinet if desired to keep the unit looking new longer.  My condenser cabinet is similar to the one pictured, so I just focus on the painted top surface and grill and it’s a quick job.  Some condenser cabinets, however, are louvered and will take a little longer.  I understand this part of the maintenance routine isn’t for everyone, but since the condenser is constantly exposed to the elements, including salt air along the coast, the unit is eventually going to start looking weathered.  This step can prolong the attractiveness of the condenser housing.

Changing your air filter is an often overlooked basic homeowner’s maintenance item and can help to avoid problems leading to unnecessary service calls.  The blower motor on most furnaces typically moves more air faster in cooling mode so you want to check/change your air filter regularly to ensure the blower motor doesn’t run longer or work harder to cool your house.  In extreme cases, a really dirty air filter can cause the indoor evaporator coil to ice-up to the point where there is no air flow through the registers even though the blower of the furnace and the outdoor condenser are operating.

Now it’s time to reward yourself with a cold beverage and relax knowing that you’re A/C system will be ready when the hot weather arrives. 

Just a couple of tips if you will be away from home over the holidays. Shut the water off going to your hot water tank. If something should happen, only the water from the tank will be released. For longer trips, turning off the hot water tank completely will save energy. If the temperature will be below freezing while you are away, the big risk is that pipes could freeze if your furnace goes out. Ask a neighbor, friend or family member to check on the house every day or two depending upon the severity of the weather.